Homemade DIY Shampoo Bar (Cold Process)
I receive many requests for a DIY shampoo bar so I'm sharing my recipe! This simple homemade shampoo bar will leave your hair soft and shiny.
Ingredients
- ⅔ cup olive oil
- ⅔ cup coconut oil
- ¾ cup cool distilled water
- ⅔ cup other oil (see list above)
- ¼ cup lye (sodium hydroxide)
- 2 Tbsp essential oils
Instructions
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Have everything laid out and ready to go before beginning this project. You’ll need to be prepared to move quickly for some of the steps.
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Cover your work area with a newspaper, put on your gloves and goggles, and mix the olive, coconut, and "other" oils in a large glass or stainless steel bowl. If any are solid, melt them prior to measuring.
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Measure water into a glass or stainless steel container. (Be sure to use a heatproof container when mixing, as the exothermic reaction when lye is added can cause heat around 200°F.) Measure your lye, making sure you have an exact ¼ cup. Have a spoon ready. Stirring as you pour, slowly pour the lye into the water, NEVER the other way around. Continue stirring until the mixture begins turning clear. Stand back while you stir to avoid the fumes. Allow the lye/water mixture to cool to about 125°F.
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When the oil mixture is at 75°F and your lye/water mixture is around 125°F, slowly pour the lye into the oils and stir. For the next 5 minutes, stir by hand. This will allow as many of the oil molecules to come in contact with as much of the lye as possible. After 5 minutes, use a stick blender (like this) to mix, being careful not to introduce air. Blend until the mixture is thick like vanilla pudding; this is called "trace." (Watch this video to see what trace looks like.)
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When you have achieved trace, you can add an addidional tablespoon of your "other oil". This could be grapeseed, castor oil, or any of the other oils listed in the oil section above. This extra oil will add extra moisture to your homemade shampoo bar and the oil will not be used by the lye, thus allowing it to add extra conditioning for your hair. You can also add optional essential oils at this point. Stir thoroughly to combine.
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Pour the soap mixture into molds and cover with plastic wrap. (These silicone molds are the perfect shape.) After 24 hours, turn it out onto a piece of parchment paper or baking rack. Leave in a dry place and turn once a week or so (which is not necessary if using a baking rack). Your homemade shampoo bars can be used after curing for 4 weeks. The bars will be milder the longer they are allowed to cure. A month-long wait is well worth the end product!
Recipe Video
Notes
To familiarize yourself with soapmaking, read this how-to make soap article. Wear protective gloves and goggles and cover all work surfaces. Use caution when mixing the lye and water as the fumes can cause a choking sensation in your throat. This will diminish after a minute or so.
- Remember to be very careful using lye. It can cause burns if not handled correctly. Keep some white vinegar handy in case of spills.
- For this soap, I wouldn’t add dried herbs. They can get stuck in your hair and be difficult to remove.
- This soap can also be made in a large mold. Cut it into bars after the first 24 hours when you remove it from the mold. They will be too hard to cut if you wait too long.
- Using one of the conditioning rinses listed above will help restore hair to a healthy pH level, add shine, and prevent buildup.
- Love the idea of natural hair care, but don’t want to make your own? Here is a line of hair care products DIY Natural has tested and LOVES.